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Start by setting a realistic budget and defining your needs (e.g. number of bedrooms, build style). Then find and secure land with the correct planning permission. Engage a designer or architect, and work out your preferred build method (timber frame, brick & block, etc.). From there, you’ll need to apply for planning, building control approval, and begin site preparation.

The usual order is:

• Site clearance
• Foundations and drainage
• Structural build (walls, roof)
• First fix (electrics/plumbing)
• Insulation and internal linings
• Second fix (fittings, switches, flooring)
• Final decoration and snagging

Yes. Full planning permission is required for a new home. You’ll also need building control approval to ensure your project meets UK Building Regulations. Some extensions or outbuildings fall under permitted development, but new builds always need planning.

Typically 6–12 months depending on size, weather, availability of trades, and how involved you are. A self-managed or part-self-build can take longer if you’re juggling roles.

You’ll likely need an architect or designer, structural engineer, planning consultant, building control inspector, groundworkers, bricklayers, roofers, electricians, plumbers, plasterers, and decorators. A project manager can help if you’re not managing the build yourself.

Bricks are typically used for external cladding and are more decorative. Blocks (thermal, dense, or lightweight) form the structure and are usually quicker to lay. A brick/block cavity wall is common in the UK.

Thermal blocks like aerated or aircrete blocks offer excellent insulation and are great for reducing heat loss through walls. They’re ideal in combination with cavity insulation or external wall insulation.

Lintels are structural supports used over door and window openings to carry loads from above. They are made of concrete or steel and must be sized according to structural needs.

• PIR: High thermal performance,      ideal for floors, roofs, and walls.
• EPS: Cheaper, used in floors      and walls but slightly lower performance.
• XPS: Moisture-resistant, ideal      for below DPC or external use.
  PIR is the most space-efficient option.

This depends on where it’s used. For floors, 100–150mm PIR is common. For cavity walls, 50–75mm PIR or 100mm mineral wool batts. Loft rolls range from 150–400mm. Always check with your designer or comply with Part L building regs.

• Standard for most walls
• Moisture-resistant for bathrooms/kitchens
• Fire-rated for stairwells and garages
• Acoustic for soundproofing

Use the right board in the right location for safety and performance.

Yes, especially in warm roof construction and some walls. It prevents internal moisture from passing through to insulation, which can cause mould or damage 

Radiators are simple and fast to install. UFH offers comfort, efficiency, and a clean look but requires more planning and higher install costs. Ideal for open-plan or well-insulated homes.

Combi boilers are compact and efficient for smaller homes. System boilers or heat pumps are better for larger houses or when using UFH. Heat pumps are more eco-friendly but cost more upfront.

• First fix includes cables, pipework, ducting, and structural elements before plastering.
• Second fix includes sockets, taps, switches, radiators, and other finishes after walls and floors are complete.